One morning in the first week of July

Makana stretches in the early blue light.

Showing Makana how to style a perfect longboard

bottom turn    the line, the weight of the back foot

the trajectory of the nose, the raised inside arm, the quick stall just

after the turn    set the rail

    force   angle     glide

we talk timeless.

Makana paddles back out his smile is infectious.

We trade ideas of weight, balance, board placement in the

pocket, speed, trim, ideals of body english,



He nods and smirks, grasping the idea of style, speed and placement and catches more waves, like I did at his age

infectious, sliding waves, wandering in her depths all day, never feeling cold

drinking in the sweets spots of riding waves.

AuthorChris Sanita