One morning in the first week of July
Makana stretches in the early blue light.
Showing Makana how to style a perfect longboard
bottom turn the line, the weight of the back foot
the trajectory of the nose, the raised inside arm, the quick stall just
after the turn set the rail
force angle glide
we talk timeless.
Makana paddles back out his smile is infectious.
We trade ideas of weight, balance, board placement in the
pocket, speed, trim, ideals of body english,
He nods and smirks, grasping the idea of style, speed and placement and catches more waves, like I did at his age
infectious, sliding waves, wandering in her depths all day, never feeling cold
drinking in the sweets spots of riding waves.